From the romantic to the gritty, from Dublin as a cheap weekend getaway to the Irish theme pubs on almost every English high street, no one can escape the fact that Irish culture is perhaps more popular than ever. Mark McCrum explores the heart of contemporary Ireland, gaining an impression of its culture and politics through meeting its people. Starting in Dublin and roaming south and around the coast, McCrum turns north and completes his trek at the ruin of the old McCrum family seat. On the way he attends the Puck Fair, goes to a beach where bones from victims of the Potato Famine lie unburied, and experiences the mix of good conversation, good company, and a little Guinness.